CRUCE DEL ATLANTICO

Horta, Faial, Azores

CRUCE DEL ATLANTICO

Hola todos nuevamente, hace rato que no escribo, con lo cual hay un monton de historias para contar.  Tratare de acordarme de casi todas. Empezare con el cruce del Atlantico, saliendo desde St. Martin.

Tuvimos la visita de Pablo Nepo y su familia, ellos alquilaron un dpto. en Oyster Pond, que queda en la costa este de la isla justo en la frontera entre el lado Frances y el Holandes. El lugar muy lindo, el complejo donde se estaban quedando tambien, y la combinacion entre tener casa y barco es perfecta, especialmente teniendo dos familias con hijos de estas edades.

Hicimos un monton de asados (Pablo los hizo, la gente que me conoce sabe de mis hablidades culinarias) nadamos en la pileta, caminamos mucho con los ninios, salimos con el barco para hacer snorkeling, pescamos, para resumir, pasamos unos muy lindos dias con Pablo, Nicole, Lucas y Sebastian. Ni hablar de lo bien que se llevaron los chicos y todo lo que jugaron.  

Aprovechamos la ayuda de Pablito y Nicole, para dejar los chicos y buscar una vivienda para Karlita y los chicos para su estadia en la isla mientras yo cruzaba. Fue bastante facil a pesar de nuestra falta de idioma, ya que Karlita se queria quedar en el lado Frances y mandar los ninios a la escuela por un mes.

Despues de cinco dias, llegaron JC Lamas y Daniel Resnik, que se sumarian a la tripulacion para el cruce. Tambien pasamos muy lindos dias, muy lindo estar con amigos de tantos anios, despues de tanto tiempo y ponernos al dia con las historias de nuestras vidas.

Despues de algunos dias llego el resto de la tripulacion, Lula Meani y Malena Mieres, las dos argentinas tambien, y de los pagos de Puerto Madryn.

Empezamos a planear el viaje, la comida, el agua, combustible, roles para la travesia y a preparar el barco para tantos dias de mar. Hicimos varios viajes al super, casas de nautica, estacion de servicio, etc.

Que caro que es todo aca en las islas!!! Por eso dicen que navegar es para la gente que tiene dinero, no como nosotros!!!

Salimos el 06 de mayo, en la maniana, con un dia de sol barbaro, con viento del cuadrante perfecto y con muchas ganas de ver esto del cruce del Atlantico, que tanto lei, y tantas ganas tenia de hacer.  Como augurio de buen viaje pescamos un Mahi-mahi (dorado) el cual JC se declaro jefe de la operacion y ningunos de nosotros nos atrevimos a discutir la estrategia.  Los que han pescado con JC saben de lo que hablo.  Cocinamos en la parrilla y disfrutamos  de una cena con uno de los pescados mas ricos que he comido.

Los dias pasaban, las guardias se sucedian y el clima acompaniandonos, prometia ser un cruce muy facil, seco y sin novedades.  La gente que navega sabe este sentimiento, y tambien sabe que es lo que viene despues de sentir esto. Yo tambien lo se, con lo cual estaba esperando que empiece el ventilador, y de proa como no podia ser de otra manera.  Por fin el viento llego, de PROA y entre los 25 y 30 nudos.

Estabamos a unos 350 millas de Bermuda y a unas 1800 de Azores.  Momento de tomar una decision, y de donde ir, con unos de los tripulantes no en servicio para decirlo de una manera, la decision fue mas facil y pusimos la proa hacia el norte para llegar a Bermuda en los proximos tres dias.

Navegacion incomoda, el barco humedeciendose cada vez mas, la comida siendo cada vez mas basica y la vida a bordo reducida a la cabina principal, estabamos bastante ansiosos de llegar a St. Georges, el Puerto de entrada de la isla de Bermuda.

Llegamos a Bermuda el dia 13 de mayo despues de 6 dias y medio, entramos en la madrugada , hicimos los papeles, que las autoridades nos convencieron que era barbaro hacerlo apenas uno llega en vez de tirar el ancla, descansar , y al otro dia ir a migraciones y aduana.  Creo que casi me tienen convencido que es una muy buena idea.

Al otro dia limpiamos todo el barco, secamos todo lo mojado (que parece ser un ritual de entrada a puerto) armamos el bote y nos fuimos a conocer esta maravilla de isla, tan distinta a todo lo que hemos visto en el caribe hasta ahora. 

A los pocos dias de pasear, conocer y charlar con otras tripulaciones, llego nuestra amiga Aurora en su barco SHIPPING, que habia salido de St. Martin unos dias antes que nosotros y que a esta altura pensabamos que habia cambiado de idea y habia ido directo a Azores en vez de parar en Bermuda. En el muelle estaban esperando un grupo de Argentinos que viven en la isla y que estaban en contacto con Aurora por satelital. Entre ellos Roberta y su marido y Sebastian, que nos cocino uno de los asados mas ricos que hemos comido con molleja y todo!Pasamos unos dias muy lindos con toda esta gente, nos llevaron por todos lados y la ventaja de pasear con “locales” y gente que sabe donde ir.

Despues de algunos dias , JC y Dani decidieron que no tenian tiempo suficiente para el resto del viaje, y compraron pasajes para volver a Argentina, lo cual sin VISA para EEUU o Canada la unica manera de salir de esta isla, es a travez de Europa, que mirando el mapa ya se imaginaran el precio de los pasajes. Pero bueno con tal de navegar uno gasta la que no tiene!!!

Zarpamos de Bermuda el dia 19 de mayo, con Lula y Malena solamente con una linda brisa del SW y haciendo un monton de millas en los primeros dias. Salimos con unos cinco barcos todos juntos, mirandonos las caras, y en el termino de 12 horas estabamos solos en el medio del Atlantico sin ver a nadie y ni siquiera con alcance de VHF.

Este parrafo se lo voy a dedicar a Alejandro, de la rueda Argentina de BLU. Alejandro brinda un servicio se pronostico y apollo a los navegantes que no tiene precio. La buena onda de esta persona que algun dia me gustaria conocer, es dificil de explicar. El estuvo ahi cada noche durante los 14 dias del viaje, dandonos todo tipo de informacion, desde clima, viento, hasta info de puertos y procedimento de entrada a Puerto. Tambien conocimos otra gente a travez de la rueda, que nos encontramos en Horta cuando arrivamos. GRACIAS ALE!!!

El cruce fue sin novedad, el barco se porto muy bien, con problemitas menores que fui arreglando a medida que pasaban ( filtros, battens, etc.) La comida estuvo muy bien, y los calculos funcionaron. Tuvimos comida fresca y fruta hasta un dia antes de entrar a Puerto. El resto muy bien, pudimos baniarnos con agua caliente cada dos dias lo cual es un lujo para mi, despues de navegar en barcos por 10 dias sin ningun tipo de hygiene personal, el famoso olor a OSO!!!

Arribamos a Horta en la Isla de Faial, depues de 13 dias y 16 horas. Llegamos a las 6 de la maniana, atracamos en el muelle de recepcion junto con barcos que conocimos en Bermuda, barcos que habian salido un dia antes que nosotros!

Fui a un internet café, hable con Karlita, planeamos su  viaje en avion que no es directo ni barato, y me relaje sabiendo que llegaban en los proximos dias. Proximo plan, limpiar, limpiar y limpiar…

  

Pablito y JC navegando en St. Martin despues de 15 anios

Que junta!!!

Cena en St. Martin noche de despedida

Toda la tripulacion del "Begonia"

Vida dura en el atlantico norte

Jefe de pesca y su trofeo

JC me deja tenerlo para la foto!

Mar para valientes unicamente

Nuestro proximo barco

Sebastian, pero este sabe hacer asado!

Cena en la casa de Rberta y Peter, con Aurora.

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FOUNTAINE PAJOT ATHENA 38 CATAMARAN FOR SALE – After our wonderful experience, BEGONIA is ready for its next sailing family – with or without children!  Please contact sebastiankoziura@hotmail.com for more information.

Au Revoir Saint Martin, Bom Dia Horta!

Baie Nettle, Marigot, Saint Martin - No chance to write a long blog entry... the latest is that Sebastian arrived in Horta, Azores on Thursday.  Since we now know that he's arrived, I booked my ticket for the kids and me to travel to Horta o meet him there.  We are leaving this Sunday, one week earlier than planned.  We are in overdrive cleaning and packing.  It's amazing what one can accumulate in a 5-week period!  Will write more from Horta, but we had a fantastic time here in Saint Martin and will miss all our friends.  Great memories.

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FOUNTAINE PAJOT ATHENA 38 CATAMARAN FOR SALE – After our wonderful experience, BEGONIA is ready for its next sailing family – with or without children!  Please contact sebastiankoziura@hotmail.com for more information.

La Realité

Baie Nettle, Marigot, St. Martin - There comes a time in every relationship when the honeymoon ends and la realité sets in. All the bad habits, the pimples and morning bedhead come to light and you wonder, “what was I thinking?” Well, it’s not quite like that, but now that we’ve been in St. Martin for about a month, we can see some of the reality to living here.

Firstly, it is the issue with computers…. There is always some obstacle here!!  The latest one is that I plug into the outlets in my apartment and sometimes the battery charges, sometimes it doesn’t.  I walk around the apartment with cable in hand and test each outlet.  There are some days it works in the bathroom, other days it doesn’t; some days it works in the living room, other days it doesn’t; some days in the living room, other days it doesn’t.  My computer also has some weird issue with Skype, where the system crashes every time I try to use it.  I finally unistalled it, but unfortunatley cannot skyp with anyone.

Another thing I still cannot figure out after all this time is the bus system and fares.  Firstly, the buses are not buses like we are used to, but privately owned mini-vans with three rows of seats in the back.  There is no rhyme or reason to the color, model or size…. Just random mini-vans.  Some have little signs on them so you know for sure they are public transportation, most do not.  I therefore find myself flagging down vans that are not meant to be public transportation, but rather a regular driver who is minding his own business driving down the road in his mini-van, or it could be a flower or pizza delivery van or something else, but you don’t know this until he is close.  The drivers and I share a good chuckle over this as they wag their fingers “non” at me through the windshield, and I see on the side of the van as it goes by, “St. Martin Windows & Glass” or “Pizza au Emporter” or some other name.

Then there are the fares…. How much does the bus fare cost, you ask???! I have no idea! At first, we were told US$ 1 - one US dollar each… which equals $3 for the three of us. We paid that for the longest time until I take another bus, the driver tells me that it is only $2:  1 for me and fifty cents each for the kids and to fight it if someone tried to tell me otherwise.  So, the next time I get into the “bus/van” I don’t have US Dollars, but Euros, so I’m thinking, “well…. The exchange rate for $2 US dollars would be roughly 75-95 cents, in Euros,” depending on the exchange rate that day, so I give the guy 1 Euro – and I thought I was being generous!!!  Boy…. Did he read me the riot act! In French and Creole!  And even though I kept calmly saying, “Sir, I’m not from here, just tell me how much it is…” he kept going on and on about “the high price of gas and if you don’t have enough you should have told me!”  I gave him 3 Euros and got off his bus/van.

When I have asked around, people tell me the buses cost ONE… one DOLLAR or one EURO it doesn’t matter.  Half the time I never see people paying… so I don’t know if they’ve bought some sort of pass, or they know the driver of the bus/van, or it’s that informal communication that goes on in different cultures that we tourists, as outsiders, never quite seem to understand.  Whatever!  I now just act like I know what I am doing and hand the driver 2 Euros and get off the bus… they have not disputed it since. 

I have found a solution to this issue by resorting to alternative methods of transportation…. And Dad, close your eyes/ears…. I have actually hitch-hiked with and without les enfants.  This is very common on the island since the buses/vans are not reliable.  And it is not weird looking old men who do it, it can be a family with children that pulls over to pick you up.  I do feel safe when I do this, so Dad, please don’t worry.

So, now let’s talk about my cuisine.  Yes, I know, très quaint… it’s outside, you never get food smells inside the house, and you squeegee the mess from each meal right off the balcony, yada-yada-yada. But no one ever tells you about what to do when there are massive monsoon-like rains… how are you supposed to cook then? Lately it has been raining quite a bit – every day there is a “YELLOW” warning meaning pre-hurricane - and it comes on kind of quickly… so you could be out eating and all of a sudden, “grab the plates and the food!” and you’re slipping and sliding all over your squeegee-ed tile floor trying to get inside!  Or let’s say the rain has already passed and you want to eat, well now all your dishes and glasses and pots and pans, and table and chairs are – you guessed it - WET!  People don’t seem to complain, so I do as the Romans do and just get out a little towel and dry my things and make our meal.

On the bright side of things, I have been meeting some colorful characters during our stay and it is such a small island, I run into people all the time.  I like that part of it! There are two women from my complex, both who work at the boulangerie I always go to use their Wi-Fi (pronounced “wee-fee” in French).  One is my next door neighbor with the big German Shepherd whom I see from my kitchen during mealtimes, and the other I will call Topless Girl, because, well, she is always topless at the pool.  The next door neighbor loves to bake and the smells emanating from her outside kitchen are irresistible… she has baked and then given us brownies and cookies on a couple of occasions, much to the kids’ delight!  Then there is the masseuse who is very nice, and her Private Eye Investigator boyfriend who used to work in Special Ops under Sarcozy.  I guess he retired as a Colonel in France and came here to live, and now has a profitable P.I. business trying to catch spouses in illicit activities.  He says there is a lot of business for this here in St. Martin and in St. Barts. There’s the Brazilian who is a renowned piano teacher on the island and of course, Sylvan the restaurant owner and Delfine, the waitress.  All of these people live in the complex but frequent the same boulangerie, supermarkets and travel the roads at the same time I do, so they may be the ones I get rides from on occasion.

I continue to take French lessons from my very good teacher.  She is the mother of Liam, one of the children who go to the same school as the kids.  She teaches English at the school but also teaches French to foreigners, as well as does translations for the courts on both sides of the island. We share a passion for linguistics and for the subtleties of different languages when we compare them.  I enjoy my time with her, since I can really practice understanding the nuances to the French language and culture.  Through her, I see that life in St. Martin is difficult from many people… very expensive and “not what it used to be.”  There are the wealthy few and the rest of the population is struggling.  I hear often that “there are no jobs.” And I can see poor Sylvan at the restaurant has no business.  The bad economy has affected everyone…  and I have heard more than one person say the Americans are not coming here as often.

So, life goes on…. And Sebastian is still on the boat.  We spoke on Thursday before he left Bermuda  – so he’s 2 days into his trip - en route to the Azores.  ETA: 20 days.  He says they are sailing well and fast and have implemented a routine of sailing shifts between the three of them during the entire 24 hour period, not just at nights.  It appears that is working better for them.

At the marina here in Marigot, I ran into one of our sailing buddies from the Bahamas.  He ended up coming over for dinner last night to get caught up.  It was nice to have company, although I find that I am keeping myself very busy here with the kids’ and my activities.

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FOUNTAINE PAJOT ATHENA 38 CATAMARAN FOR SALE – After our wonderful experience, BEGONIA is ready for its next sailing family – with or without children!  Please contact sebastiankoziura@hotmail.com for more information.

CAPTAIN'S CORNER

Bermuda - The captain called today from Bermuda.  It was so nice to hear his voice after what is actually not that long, but one week, sailing the seas just seems to be so far away…. Sebastian talks fondly of Bermuda.  He says it is beautiful, orderly and very British.  I guess he and the crew have been hanging out with the sailing crowd at the Dinghy Club Happy Hour.  The plan is still to leave this coming Wednesday in the a.m. after filling up the tanks with fuel. I
t is a small world and especially in these sailing circles… Sebastian ran into the folks from Tehani-Li…. A boat we met back in Culebra, off of Puerto Rico and had seen them at various ports throughout the US and British Virgin Islands.  Sebastian says he was approached by them on their dinghy passing by. This is a couple from Australia and Quebec who have been sailing for the last ten years.

Sebastian also ran into Aurora… the Argentinean woman who is sailing solo from St. Martin to Portugal, stopping in Bermuda and the Azores.  I am not sure I have mentioned her before but our sailing friend Alex back in Chicago had read about her on the internet and wrote to tell us that Aurora was in St. Martin preparing to cross.  We dinghy-ed over to the marina where her boat was parked on the Dutch side of the island and introduced ourselves and ended up spending about 6 hours with her drinking caipirinhas… (Apparently she is famous for her caipirinhas even though she is not Brazilian!).  What a fascinating lady…. She is 60+ and has sailed all her life in Argentina, participating in and winning various all-women regattas.  She has done one of the famous races in Argentina from Buenos Aires to Mar de Plata (a co-ed race) and won that too. 

We learned a lot about her in the afternoon we spent together, mainly that she runs her own shipping company in Buenos Aires, thus her boat’s moniker:  “SHIPPING.” She is a spunky woman and has a strong character… I wouldn’t imagine any less than that if she wants to cross the Atlantic! She shared some very interesting stories about travelling from Argentina to St. Martin and how as a woman alone you have to be STRONG.  While we were with her she received an email from a reporter in Argentina who had done an article on her and wanted to let her know that the article came out in El Clarín that day. (I am sure if interested in learning more you could Google “Aurora, Shipping, Argentina” and something would come up). She will be the first Argentinean woman who has done a solo crossing!  She will go down in the history of her country and we were thrilled to have met her.  She had left St. Martin about a week before Sebastian, and just arrived.  Total travel time solo: 13 days!!! The poor lady must be exhausted.  I think she is staying put in Bermuda for a couple of days to get her mojo back.  Sebas and crew went to one of Aurora’s friend’s homes for a BBQ on Sunday.

The guys are still looking for flights to return to Argentina, although they are not having any luck doing it not expensively.  Sebastian told me they may have to continue the trip after all???? Don’t quote me on this, as things seem to change daily.  Sebastian is looking forward to getting “on the road” again.

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FOUNTAINE PAJOT ATHENA 38 CATAMARAN FOR SALE – After our wonderful experience, BEGONIA is ready for its next sailing family – with or without children!  Please contact sebastiankoziura@hotmail.com for more information.

NEWS FROM BERMUDA

Bermuda - Quick update on the Begonia and crew.  They arrived on Friday at about 2am and are planning on staying until Wednesday in order to clean and air out the boat, fix the spinnaker and one of the battens.  Two of the crew are looking into flights back to Argentina, so Sebastian and the two women who have crossed the Atlantic before will be the crew from here on out. 

Next stop:  the Azores

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FOUNTAINE PAJOT ATHENA 38 CATAMARAN FOR SALE – After our wonderful experience, BEGONIA is ready for its next sailing family – with or without children!  Please contact sebastiankoziura@hotmail.com for more information.

NEWS FROM THE ATLANTIC

Begonia Sailing the Atlantic Ocean – Some of you may be interested in knowing how the Atlantic Crossing is going.  It is Day 8 already!  I receive daily e-mails from Sebastian, Captain of Begonia, and although the messages are very brief, it is amazing that we can actually communicate via e-mail.  It seems the vessel and crew are heading toward Bermuda with the plan of stopping there for a day to take a break.  I do know that one of the crew has been (sea)sick for three days straight, and maybe the decision was finalized because of this?  Sebastian also mentioned the need to get fuel and water.

Some good news from them is that they caught a big mahi-mahi the second day out (no details on size or weight).  This is amazing as we have had the lines out every day for months and have had no luck recently.  The crew was happy to cook up the fish and enjoy a good meal.  Another positive thing to note is that the crew finally bathed on Day 6 and it made everyone a little happier.
Some bad news is that something happened to the spinnaker (the big colorful sail that is used when you have wind coming from directly behind you) and the whole thing fell into the water.  The entire crew worked together to get it out, but the spinnaker is huge and difficult to manage when dry… I can’t even imagine when wet.  I am not sure whether or not it is fixed now or what. The captain also mentioned the boat is very wet and humid inside and not too comfy.

Sebastian also mentioned the first few days were tranquil and not much wind – they even ran the motor a little! But then the seas became rougher and they rocked and rolled for a couple of days.

I just can’t believe that during this entire week when I’ve gone back and forth with the kids to school, making dinner, running, having a coffee at an outside café, watching the kids in the swimming pool, etc – that during all this that has gone on in our daily life this week  – Sebastian has been sailing!  I know that perhaps it sounds funny that I say this, but it just seems like such a long time.

The latest news today is that they will arrive in Bermuda as they are only 10 miles from the coast!!! It looks like two crew members will be abandoning ship in Bermuda due to seasickness and lack of time to go all the way.  Sebastian says he will be glad to sleep well in a dry place that is not moving.

More to come…

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FOUNTAINE PAJOT ATHENA 38 CATAMARAN FOR SALE – After our wonderful experience, BEGONIA is ready for its next sailing family – with or without children!  Please contact sebastiankoziura@hotmail.com for more information.

L'Ecole Au Bord de L'Eau

Baie Nettlé, Marigot , St. Martin – I can’t believe that after not blogging for so long, I now have posted 3 in a row! 

Today was the children’s first day of school at L’Ecole Au Bord de L’Eau (The School on the Edge of the Water).  It is a small primary school located right in the channel that leads from Marigot Bay to the Lagoon, just next to the drawbridge that allows sailboats through 3 times a day.  Since the school play area literally is on the water, we passed it several times by boat and dinghy so I was thrilled that it all worked out for the kids to attend there.  The school is new – just opened last September – and run by three women.  There are only 30 students, ages 6-12 who are divided into 3 separate classes (one for each of the teachers).

After having visited the School Board here and visiting two other schools, Sebastian and I really liked the philosophy of L’Ecole.  They even have a website (which was not common for all the other schools on the island)!!  The school hours are from 8-1, but you can have the kids stay an extra hour for lunch until 2; and/or stay for after school activities like sailing class and art and tennis, etc. until 5; or until 6 for after-school care.  Apparently the public school system in St. Martin is closed every Wednesdays, so the school offers a daycare on Wednesdays for public school children whose parents work as well as during the summer and holidays.  The kids have English and Spanish class once a week and right now they are all preparing for the year end show, where the kids are learning to dance a minuet.  Yes, I can tell you right now, Benjie will LOVE that!  Not!  Most of all, we liked the teachers and their flexibility to take on our non-Francophone kids for only 4 weeks at the end of the school year.  Je suis trés contente!

We went for a visit last Friday and just in the 45 minutes we were there, the differences in French and U.S. education were very apparent.  There is a strict list of rules at the school that every parent and child must not only read, but SIGN!  I went through the list with the kids at home before going, but the director went through the list again with Sofia and Benjie in person, item by item and made them nod their heads to each one… it was cute to see little Benjito “signing” his name to such an important document when he can barely write at all!  They make the students sign it so there is an official contract that can be pulled out of their files if they disobey the rules…. I can just picture a mad teacher holding up the document and yelling, “See, you must do XYZ… we have a contract… you SIGNED it!”  I wonder how that contract would hold up in court?  ;  )
Most of the rules are obvious ones like “You may not use foul language,” or “You may not hit other students,” but a couple of the more salient ones are:

• You must say Bonjour and Au Revoir to all present teachers and students or parents when arriving to and leaving the school.
• You must call your teachers Madame, Mademoiselle or Maitresse (teacher); not by their name.
• You must all rise whenever an adult comes into the classroom.
• If opening a door, you must hold the door open for anyone who is coming behind you.  (I agree that children should do this… I was just surprised to see it as an official rule of the school for which you have to sign).

These are all nice rules, but again, I’m just a little surprised at the formality of it all.  The director also explained the disciplinary procedure that if you don’t follow the rules, they give you a warning.  A second time, you have to sit out at recess… and the third time, a note gets sent home to the parents.  Talk about three strikes and you’re out!!!  I try to imagine Sofia’s school back in Evanston implementing such a no-tolerance policy.  They’d have to have a separate staff just to manage The Rules.

The students seem very happy there.  One of them is a boy from Thailand who just arrived two weeks ago.  He only speaks Thai and the teacher pulls him aside half hour each day for basic French.  Sofia and Benjamin will be joining him in these sessions.

When I dropped them off, as to be expected, Sofia went right in and started asking the girls their names and ages, etc. and Benjamin stayed by my side.  As soon as he saw they had some good TOYS… he left my side and they barely even said good-bye when I left.

Yesterday I had a good Mother’s Day with the kids and was pleasantly surprised by a phone call from my Dad!  He made my week!  I hope all you mothers out there also had a good day.

First Day of School:  Kids waiting for the bus on the  main road.

The street where the school is loated.  L'Ecole is the orange building on the left .

Main entrance.  The upstairs classrooms are for the bigger kids; the downstairs for the smaller ones.

The back play area of the school.  See the drawbridge leading sailors into Simpson Bay Lagoon.  It opens three times a day.

This is how I left the kids - happy as clams!

The "Contract."

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FOUNTAINE PAJOT ATHENA 38 CATAMARAN FOR SALE – After our wonderful experience, BEGONIA is ready for its next sailing family – with or without children!  Please contact sebastiankoziura@hotmail.com for more information.